12 Days Sale Sewing Tips of the Day

1. Threads looping on top of the fabric and threads “nesting” on the bottom of the fabric are common problems.  Check each of the following things to help eliminate the problem.  First, put in a “NEW” (out of the package, not out of your pincushion) needle. Choose a needle that is most compatible with your fabric. Sharp needles are for woven fabrics and Ballpoint needles are best for knits. Follow your manufacturer’s instructions (most of today’s machine require that the flat part of the needle shank is to the back). Next, verify that the bobbin is in the machine correctly and that the bobbin thread is fully in the tension. Finally, rethread the top of the machine with the presser foot UP, from the beginning checking to be sure that all of the thread guides and the take-up lever are threaded correctly.  Finally, before beginning to sew, lower the presser foot and verify that the upper thread is difficult to pull.  This indicates that the thread is in the upper tension.
2. Thread tension is a result of the machine and bobbin case tension settings, which in turn, causes us to have “tension” (especially when a deadline, like Christmas, is looming). Follow these general guidelines to tame your “tension”.  Determine which tension is giving you a problem.  If you are seeing lots of your upper thread on the back, this is an upper tension problem. Check that your upper tension setting is 4 – 4.5 for machines with manual tension dials. For machines with electronic tensions, rethread the machine from the beginning with the machine turned on. After threading, put the presser foot down and check if the thread is harder to pull.  If the thread pulls very easily, get a flashlight and look into the slots where the tension is and see if you can notice broken threads.  If so, this may be your problem. If you are seeing lots of bobbin thread on the top of your fabric, this is a bobbin tension problem. Most bobbin case tensions have been preset to a specific number of grams of drag either at the factory or by the service person during your last service.  Typically, changing the tension setting of your bobbin case is a poor choice because affects the result of everything you do.  Try removing your bobbin and reinserting it.  Double-check that it is in the machine in the right direction (it makes a difference), and that the bobbin thread is fully under the bobbin case spring. If you feel that the bobbin tension is the problem, remove your bobbin case and use a magnifying glass to check for little bits of thread caught under the spring. Put your bobbin back into the machine and try again.
3. Sergers can speed up the sewing process in several ways.  First they are much faster than most sewing machines.  Second they trim the fabric as you sew, saving you time.  Are you having trouble threading yours?  Follow these guidelines:  For 2, 3, 4 thread sergers, always thread the Upper looper (thread slot that is second from the right on 4-thread sergers) FIRST. The needles cannot be threaded at this point. Second, thread the Lower looper (right most thread slot on 4-thread sergers) next. Be certain that the lower looper thread crosses over the upper looper and thread correctly (double check your manual).  Finally, thread your needles last!  If that didn’t work, come see our Babylock Imagine` that can be threaded in any order and doesn’t have tension dials. Yea!
4. Keeping your machines cleaned and lubricated can make the difference between a machine that “purrs” and one that will not sew.  Here’s how: start by removing the bobbin and bobbin case (be sure to make a note of how it goes back in) and clean the bobbin case area with a soft brush like a make-up brush or small paint brush.  Remove the throatplate (some “pop” off and some must be unscrewed) and clean around the feed dogs. Next, attach a small vacuum adapter (available at Sprinkles) to your regular household vacuum hose and suction out the remaining lint. Avoid the use of canned air which contains Freon and can freeze the metal parts of your machine.  Or worse yet, drive the lint further back into the gears of your machine. Put the parts back together. If your machine has ALL metal parts, now is the time to oil in the bobbin case area only – or as recommended by your manufacturer. Avoid the temptation to start oiling everything.  Many of today’s newer machines require special oils to be used on interior parts and removing covers can also void your warranty – best to check FIRST!
5. Thread comes in a wide variety of weights and types. Thread weights are measured by thickness and plys.  Fiber content may also need to be considered. Threads can be cotton, polyester, nylon, or cotton-covered polyester (like Coats). Most combination threads do not perform as well as threads that are made of only one fiber. Also, be aware that most “cheap” threads are cheap for a reason.  They usually break more often and are less strong because they are made from very short fibers twisted together, instead of the long fibers used in quality brands. Most sewing thread today is #50 and is comprised of 3-plys. Thread gets thinner as the number rises. Serger thread for example is #70. Bobbin threads used for embroidery are typically anywhere from #65 to #90 in size!  Bobbin threads are designed for use with decorative stitches or machine embroidery (places where regular threads can build-up and get stiff). You can see why using bobbin thread in place of regular thread for sewing is not recommended.
6. For the best results when using the decorative stitches on your sewing machine, use the correct foot! Most manufacturers supply a regular presser foot (which is flat on the bottom) for normal straight stitches and zigzag stitching.  On Pfaff brands this is the foot marked “0A”.  Babylock and Brother owners should be using foot “J” and Bernina owners should have the #1 foot on for regular sewing.  Decorative sewing required a foot that has a slight channel on the bottom.  The channel allows that build-up of thread that happens during a decorative stitch to pass under the foot without causing jamming. For Pfaff owners, this is foot “1A” or “2A”.  Babylock and Brother owners will want to use the “N” foot.  Bernina owners should use foot #40.  For decorative stitching, open toe feet are nice to have and are usually an accessory that must be purchased separately.
7. Are you learning to free-motion quilt?  Here’s how to get started:  Put in a new needle, preferably #100/16 sharp. Lower your feed dogs, or cover them (check your manual for instructions). Set your machine on a straight stitch in the center needle position (and lock it into place, if your machine has that capability). Attach a free-motion quilting or darning foot.  Most companies offer several styles, so that you can find one that you like. Set your machine up in a cabinet or with an extension table (available by special order for almost all models) so that you will have a larger work surface to support the fabric. Optional – put a straight stitch needleplate on your machine if one is available for your model. This plate helps to prevent skipped stitches and improves tension.  Set the machine to half speed.  The three keys to getting good results are: steady machine speed (not too slow or you’ll break needles or get really long stitches), steady smooth fluid movement of your quilt sandwich (jerking gives erratic results), and knowing where you are going.  Transfer the pattern onto the quilt top so that you have some lines to follow! Try Glad Press N Seal.  Use an extra fine point sharpie marker to trace your pattern onto the Press N Seal and then press it onto the quilt top.  Stitch and tear away when done.
8. Most decorative stitching and embroidery will be far more attractive when done with threads created especially for embroidery.  These threads are approximately the same price as regular sewing threads, but they have a much higher level of sheen.  This added luster, gives your designs and decorative stitching additional depth from the reflection of light. Embroidery threads with sheen are made of rayon or of polyester.  Rayon threads have the most sheen, but they are not colorfast.  Polyester threads are colorfast and great for use on items that will receive lots of washing and wearing, like towels and children’s clothes.
9. Every machine will give you its best when taken care of properly.  Generally this means a yearly service. Just like your automobile, (you do get the oil changed every 3000 miles, right?) your machine has moving parts that need to be properly cleaned and lubricated by a certified technician. In the Colorado environment, (dry and dusty) this is very important. If you notice that your machine is sounding much louder than normal and oiling the bobbin case area doesn’t seem to help, your machine is begging for some routine maintenance. This is especially true if you own an embroidery machine because the machine can stitch thousands of stitches in every design without you being in front of it (yes, those stitches count too!).  Embroidery units should also have maintenance done after about 5 million stitches.
10. Have you ever tried to do a decorative stitch and had your fabric tunnel (or fold) underneath the stitches?  You will get better results if you use a stabilizer product.  Sprinkles Sewing Center stocks a variety of stabilizers for every purpose.  We will be happy to assist you in choosing the right one for your project.
11. Changing your needle is the least expensive thing you can do to protect your machine, prevent damage to your fabric and save your sanity! Generally, you should put in a new needle after every quilt top or every two – three garments. If you are a lazy sewer who stitches over pins, and your needle has hit one, change it immediately. The point of the needle is now damaged and will damage your fabric with every stitch. How can you tell that your needle needs changed? Listen for a “popping” sound.  It is a telltale sign that the needle is dull.  Use good quality needles like Schmetz or Klasse` and use the correct point style for the fabric you are sewing.  Stop by the store and pick up a Schmetz needle guide. Avoid using Singer needles in any machine that is not the Singer brand.  Singer needles have the eye of the needle positioned at a slightly different level that can cause automatic needle threaders to not work correctly.
12. If you like to quilt and you are finding it hard to control a rotary cutter and ruler (arthritic hands, bad eyes, carpel tunnel syndrome, new quilter) you should come in and see today’s newest fabric cutting systems.  The AccuQuilt GO! and Baby GO! cutters insure perfect cuts every time and in much less time than traditional cutting methods. These cutters boast the ability to cut pieces for a whole quilt top in only a few hours compared to a few days. The GO! cutters cut up to 6 layers of fabric at a time with perfect accuracy. WOW!